One of the founders of modern winter mountaineering, Hamish McInnes was equally famous for his exploits on the mountain and his equipment designs. These include the first all metal ice axe and the MacInnes mountain rescue stretchers now used internationally. He made his first attempt on Everest in 1953, an audacious shoe-string trip with fellow Scot John Cunningham, of the Glasgow-based Creagh Dhu Mountaineering Club. Two decades later he was deputy leader of the successful 1975 Everest Southwest Face expedition. McInnes has written 21 books and is a world authority on mountain rescue.